While you can install software to allow gain adjustment to give more movement near the center, the underlying problem can't be fixed in software, since the joystick controller simply tells the computer that it's _at_ 0 anytime it's _near_ 0 (approximately the center 17%!). This made control choppy and inconsistent crossing the axes, and made it very difficult to aim near the center (where you're typically aiming). For me, the biggest one was the large dead zone in the middle of the axes. While a good value for the money, there are some shortcomings. The Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X is a budget HOTAS (Hands On Throttle-And-Stick) controller. The source code and necessary files are all in the zip file attached to this post. It's a replacement controller for a nice USB joystick with a flawed MCU. This change is often reverted automatically by Windows on an update, so you'll need to change it back from time to time.I finished my Teensy project I've been working on for the last week, so I figured I'd post it here to show it off, and hopefully someone will find at least part of it useful. Windows should no longer send the device to sleep. There is an entry for "EnhancedPowerManagementEnabled". Regedit will open with the device ID highlighted.Įxpand the registry entry (click on the arrow.)Ĭlick the "Device Parameters" folder (don't expand the entry you don't need to.) Right click and select "Open in RegEdit". With the joystick connected and TARGET not running, run USBDeview. To fix this, there's a really useful program called USBDeview (scroll down to the bottom of the page for the download link). If you see "Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root)," then Windows will actually shut off the power to the USB port that the stick is connected to because it believes that the device "T16000.M" has been disconnected. It will list all the attached joystick devices in a human-readable format. You can check whether this is active by hitting the Super key, typing "joy.cpl" and running that program (it's the Game Controllers applet). If you run a TARGET script, the joystick will be replaced with a Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root). They work well for tablets and laptops, no doubt, but they're meant for people lying on a sofa reading news websites or messing around on Facebook, not gamers. Windows 10's power management features are needlessly aggressive for a desktop gaming machine. I had another reply in a different forum that seems to be working so far and I will post all the information here for future reference. I appreciate your reply while you are on holiday. None of the above occurred until we installed the FSSB. I love the feel of the FSSB, but I can't use it if we can't use the TARGET Software, and it was my understanding from reading the the website that the FSSB was compatible with the Thrustmaster TARGET Software. I even tried making a new TARGET profile with just one button programmed to the throttle and one button programmed to the stick and the same issue occurred. I can get the stick input to work again by unplugging the stick from my computer USB slot and then plugging it back it, but as soon as I open "Game Controllers" or Star Citizen, the stick stops working. This also happens if I run Star Citizen, or likely anything that interacts with the inputs. For whatever reason on my PC, I initially could reproduce the error this way, but after some uninstalls and reinstalls of the TARGET Software, I now can use throttle inputs in the "Event Tester", but as soon as I open the "Game Controllers" my stick stops working. Initially, when we run the "Event Tester" in the TARGET Software, the throttle inputs show as mapped, but as soon as you touch the throttle, the stick stops working. In the "Game Controllers" both of ours Warthogs show up as "Joystick - HOTAS Warthog," "Throttle - HOTAS Warthog." When we run the TARGET profile in the TARGET software (you can download from link below), they change in the "Game Controllers" to "Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (root)." I have to use TARGET as I am in charge of building profiles for our very large group. We both installed the Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog OEM PCB so we can use the TAEGET Software. We are both running Windows 10 64 bit (latest version), Thrustmaster TAREGET Software v3.0.18.328 v2 (see link below), we are both using MJF_FW_2_00_2 as the devices were shipped with, and we both updated to Setup_RS Tools_V1_01_rev4. At my suggestion, Santa also brought a friend of mine an FSSB R3 Lighting (serial #221, Job #214). I have been looking into an FSSB for years and finally Santa gave me an FSSB R3 Lighting (serial #216, Job #214) for Christmas.
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